HOW TO MAKE WHATEVER YOU PRINT LOOK SHARP, GET NOTICED AND READ!
by William G. Schlake
Copyright 1993 by Hobson Square Publishing. All rights reserved.
No part of this report may be reproduced or transmitted in any
form by electronic, mechanical, photocopying or other means
without the express written permission of the publisher.
Getting high quality printing takes more than finding a good
printer. You have to know the rules of the game or the results
will be less then professional. Regardless if you're using the
corner drugstore's copy machine to run off a few copies on the
spot, or paying big bucks to a printer in a distant city for a
full blown catalog, everything starts with the material
provided. The camera truly sees everything, so be careful to
always provide crisp, uncontaminated originals or you will be
disappointed with the results.
TIPS TO PRODUCE GOOD ORIGINALS
- If you want quality printing, always submit your material on a
good grade of white paper, regardless of what final color your
material is to be printed on.
- Whenever possible, have your printer work from an original
document. If that's not possible it should be nothing more than
a first generation copy. Anything else will give poor results
- If you're using a computer, final output should be printed on
a Laser printer with a resolution of at least 300 dots per inch.
600 DPI, or 800 DPl is noticeably better. In a pinch, Ink Jet
printers produce reasonably good output, but stay away from any
dot matrix printers that produce ragged text and terrible
graphics that will only be magnified when reproduced by your
printer or copy machine.
- To stand out from the crowd, consider having your masters
printed on a ultra-high resolution printer found at many service
bureaus in major cities. Typical resolutions start at 1,200 DPI.
This is especially important if you employ graphics,
photographs, or complex shading patterns. The cost is around
fifteen dollars a page.
- If you're still using a typewriter, be sure it's an electric
model equipped with a high quality carbon ribbon.
- Never try and erase from the original. No matter how careful
you are, the printer's camera can pick up the deterioration in
the paper, make the blemish more noticeable and highlight the
very error you're trying to hide.
- The same applies to typewriter ribbons that "type over
mistakes," the camera will pick it up.
- If you must "correct" and are unwilling to redo your work, use
a very small amount of one of the many liquid correction fluids.
Be sure to match the color of the correction fluid to the paper
and let it dry thoroughly.
- Avoid using paper clips or folding. Each will put creases in
the paper. No staples either, which leave tiny holes that will
reproduce as black dots. No masking or cellophane tape which
also leave tell-tale marks.
- Never use a pencil or marking pens. Neither reproduce evenly
or provide enough contrast. Signatures should be made in black
ink, being sure you apply steady pressure throughout.
- If you want to have a photograph reproduced you need to have
it "screened" first. While most quick-print shop can provide
this service, you probably can have it done cheaper at your
local newspaper office.
WHICH IS BEST, PHOTOCOPYING OR OFFSET PRINTING?
Finding the "right" printer depends on the job you're having
done. Most Quick Print Shops found in the major metropolitan
areas do reasonably good work but are usually expensive. The
main advantage is speed. If you have to have something right
away expect to pay a premium price. If you can wait an average
of a week to ten days you can find many mail order printers that
do very good work at a fraction of the price of your
neighborhood printer charges. Like anything else it pays to shop
around. Prices and quality of work varies considerably.
One alternative to offset printing is high quality photocopying.
Several national franchises and many retail chain provide
excellent work. The key is what type of equipment is available.
The typical "pay as you copy" machines that you must feed an
endless supply of coins are not suited to running more than a
few copies at a time. To get quality and reasonable price I'm
talking about expensive full size machines that can copy a
two-sided document in one pass anywhere from 50 to 200 copies
per minute. If well maintained, the output is excellent and hard
to distinguish from offset printing. Your cost should be in the
area of four to eight cents a page, which can be a bargain if
your need around a hundred copies or so.
If you need more than a few hundred copies, offset printing is
cheaper especially in higher quantities. The best way to save is
plan ahead. The printer's biggest cost isn't paper or ink which
they buy truck loads of at a time, it's labor expense creating,
lugging and setting-up the plates in the printing press. So
don't have a thousand circulars printed up and come back a month
later to repeat the process. You can almost always get a much
better price by ordering a six month or greater supply and have
them printed all at once.
PAPER AND INK
Color paper is far cheaper then colored ink for the same labor
intensive reasons, and works just as well at getting attention.
Good choices for sales letters and proposals are off-white, buff
and cream. Letterheads look best on a heavy paper. Black ink on
a soft yellow or medium pink are very effective choices for
circulars and price lists. Lighter shades green, gray and lilac
also work well for most sales materials.
Harsh color combinations like black ink on red paper should be
restricted to large type of a few words only, due to being very
hard on the reader's eyes. Reverses (white type set on large
black backgrounds) should be limited to small sections like
headlines or an attention getting box for the same reason.
Some advertisers have had good success with the newer
fluorescent colored papers. While very harsh, they're also
bright which gives the necessary contrast to make them work.
Because any material printed on this type of paper can
overpowering, keep your wording to a minimum and stay away from
small text.
ADDITIONAL TIPS TO MAKE YOUR WORK STAND OUT
No matter how good the final product, its of no value if it
doesn't get read. Chose your words carefully. Eliminate worn-out
over used words and phrases that serve no purpose. Make every
word count. Graphics and any art work should tie-in and
complement the words - never detract or confuse.
The importance of white space can not be over emphasized. Never
try and squeeze your work into too small an area. While
half-inch margins should be considered a minimum for an 8-1/2 x
11 paper, three-quarter to one inch margins generally look
better. Be sure to break-up long blocks of text with Sub Heads.
Not only do they make whatever you wrote easier to read, it adds
visual impact as well.
If you're using a computer don't be tempted to use every font
you have in your library. It comes across unprofessional and has
the net effect of actually making your work look sloppy and
amateurish. For any document you should have no more then three
fonts. One for any headline, one for sub-heads and another for
the body. Instead of changing fonts, add interest by using
either bold or italics You can also make your work look better
by varying the size of paragraphs, and indenting or changing the
justification on certain key sections. Bullets, borders, and
shading in moderation also go a long way to making what ever
your writing look better The better your work looks, the more
likely it will be read!